26-Oct-2005 Log Print E-mail
Friday, 28 October 2005

Date: 2005-10-28 01:27:54
Geo Coord: 27.68824N 86.72807
Altitude: 5189

Monjo to Lukla: It is our final day on the trail.  We have a full day ahead to get to Lukla where the mountain airport is.  We all look forward to wedging ourselves into that rickety plane back to Katmandu.  The clouds had moved in that covered the mountains for the entire way down.  The heavy mist cooled our bodies as we propelled ourselves down the mountain.  Due to the cool humid weather it was hard to pick what clothes would keep us warm but not to hot on the way down.
Nepalese Girl
Nepalese Girl
We started off at a nice steady pace taking photos and stopping to see the people on the trail. Large groups of trekkers passed us as they started their trip.  Many of the trekkers will only go to Namche and will not to the high altitude trek.  I would recommend the Namche Bazaar as a stop for anyone planning on going to Nepal.  The weekend trip to Namche lets you see great views of Everest and have a fantastic mountain village to stay in without altitude sickness and weeks of strenuous hiking.  Our group is in good spirits; our strength seems to be increasing each step we take down in altitude.  We tear over the trails passing new travelers who are gasping for air.  After two weeks of high altitude acclimatization and strength building with heavy packs, we are in shape and have more oxygen at the 10,000 feet altitude than our bodies know what to do with.  We keep a steady pace half way down the mountain. Three of our younger porters had a party the night before and are suffering from hangovers. Shawna gives them Ibuprofen and multi-vitamins to revive their energy.  An hour and a half out of Lukla I find that we are doing a high speed walk down the hill. The number 3 Sherpa named Danzig and me are walking faster and faster in an informal race.  As the race becomes more and more serious, I plug in my Ipod to my workout tunes and the game is on.  For the next half an hour we are at a near run trying to keep up with each other.  We both have decent size packs on but the lower altitude has given us extra energy.  The final uphill to Lukla seems endless, Danzig who had been at the party the night before is huffing for air.  I don’t know if he is making me feel good as he drops back up the long steep hill.  I keep pressing ahead putting distance between him and me.  I finally get into Lukla with Danzig far behind me.  Either he drank to much the night before, had to heavy a pack on, or let me win in hopes of a bigger tip at the end of the trip.  Either way it felt good to get into Lukla. Due to our race, it was 45 minutes before Shawna and the rest of the Sherpas got into town.  Both Simon and Nicolas had a similar race together and had arrived just a few minutes ahead of me.  When I walked in to the lodge they were both sitting there sweating up a storm.  We shed our jackets to enjoy hot milk tea and it was two more hours before the porters arrived with our bags with dry clothes in them.

Shawna and I got a room that had its own bathroom.  It even had a western style toilet. It was the only room with a bathroom and we offered up the shower to Simon and Nicolas to freshen up.  It was the official last day of the trek and we were going to have a large dinner with all our porters and Sherpas.  It was also customary that we tip all of them at this time, so we had to sort out our cash.
Dog waiting for meat
Dog waiting for meat
We decided that 50 USD per trekker per week would be fair. We put in a total of 600 USD between the four of us, and then came the hard part of deciding who get what.  There is a distinct pecking order in the group and the higher ups often get tipped more.  We as a group decided that everyone worked equally as hard and decided to tip each of our 17 people the same amount.  This may not be appreciated as much by the higher ups, but it should be appreciated by the porters carrying the heavy loads.  Once we had the money situation squared away we ambled off to a local pub that was playing western music.  We had a few Everest beers, enjoyed the tunes then had to go back to the lodge for our group dinner.  When we arrived the festivities had already begun with the staff having a few beers.  There was an odd somberness to the gathering and Dendie explained that 16 people had just been killed by an avalanche on a climbing expedition in the mountains we had just returned from.  Sitting in the corner of the room was one of the widows of one of the Sherpas killed in the avalanche.  She sat somber with her son as we finish up the night’s events. They baked a large cake in celebration of the completion of our trip.  It is pouring rain outside and the cold damp air makes us call it an early night and hope for a flight out the next day.

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